Artisan Market - Lubango, Angola

 

Driving into the center of town we passed many vendors on the street selling vegetables, fruit, baskets and various other goods.

We passed an interesting catholic church with a modern twist on gothic architecture. It had beautiful teal doors and interesting window patterns that reflected the patterns in the mosaics on the walkway in the front.

Across from this church was a walled courtyard with a small group of vendors. Teague and Robert led me through the grassy yard into a small room where two men were woodworking. Along two walls were shelves filled with stone and wood carvings of iconic Angolan imagery. The most common were busts of women from the Mwila Tribe carved from purplish pink rocks of the nearby Chibia Quarry and the Pensador, (The Thinker) which is one of the most famous symbols of Angolan culture.

While Lubango is in the southwest of Angola - home to the Mwila Tribe - the Pensador originated with the Chokwe Tribe in the Northeast part of Angola. This tribe has the most famous artwork in Angola and it has been influential across the country. You can find the Pensador on everything from Angola’s currency to the bathroom doors. 

However the most fascinating was watching the craftsman carve a Pensador from start to nearly finish. I got to stand close enough to have wood shards fly into my face and hair. He masterfully hammered on different chisels until the form began to appear out of what was once a rectangular block of wood.

The ground was dirt covered with a layer of sawdust, wood scraps and rock pebbles. A chicken sat beneath the artist’s feet and the air was thick and hot. But I could have stayed there and watched him carve all day.

Happy Dance

Today something huge happened. I booked my flight(s) to Angola, Africa. This process has been almost a year of researching, waiting, planning, waiting, coordinating, waiting and praying. 

In my art classrooms there has been a constant void in my curriculum. As an educator, I naturally pull from what my experiences equip me with to impart knowledge to my students. When my experience was lacking, the next best thing was researching someone else's experience and trying to share this insight second-hand. My art explorations have been limited to the museums here in the states, the semester I studied abroad in London, and briefly backpacked Europe. This tends to create a very Euro-centric approach to art history and art making. It's not for the lack of trying. There simply is not enough research and documentation in our school library, public library or even on the internet to provide an in depth look at the vastness that is the African art landscape. 

Last fall a colleague of mine, Doug Anderson, came back to school after a trip, as a Teacher Fellow with National Geographic, to the north pole to study polar bears, icebergs and other things that make Environmental Science teachers tingly. He was so pumped up when he returned and shared all about his experience, his enthusiasm was contagious. He also shared about how there are opportunities like his all around if one was willing to look.

Inspired was an understatement. I knew where I wanted to go. My roommate in college, Teague Meyer and her family began their adventure as missionaries in Angola, Africa in 2010. It had been a dream to visit since before they had even left the states. But, it was always impossibly expensive. Now, I had a tiny chance to see the great work she and Robert had been doing, and maybe even research some art while I was at it!

After several hours of scouring the internet to find an opportunity that would allow me to taylor my own experience, I discovered the national grant foundation Fund for Teachers. This initiated a 3 month research expedition into Angolan tribal art, contemporary art making and art history. Similar to my experience of researching African art for my classroom, this experience was fraught with difficulty. Many times the information I found came directly from Teague and Robert as they were actually on the ground in Angola and could ask questions or do research locally. This just reinforced the need for this research and I hoped the grant committee would see it the same way. 

The grant I wrote was to fund the research of the tribal art of the Chokwe people, the ancient rock art of Tchitundu Hulu and to facilitate an international art making cooperative, among other things. January 20th I hit "submit."

It would be 4 months before I would know if my grant had been awarded. Being that I like to plan things and check off lists to pretend to be in control, I decided to proceed as though I were going to be awarded the grant. Robert sent me all the visa application requirements...a 7 page email of instructions. The instructions had instructions. This process was an adventure all by itself. 

First, renew passport...check. Second, yellow fever vaccine...check. Third, go to the Angolan Consulate in Houston, TX on a Monday or Wednesday between 9-2. Um...I was needing another excuse to go to Texas to visit my brother (in Dallas) anyway. As I discovered, I had the easy part of the visa application. Robert had to make the 8-11 hour trek to the capital, Luanda, to formally send my letter of invitation to the consulate. So thankful he was willing to invite me!

The Consulate of Angola - Houston, TX - March 22, 2016

The Consulate of Angola - Houston, TX - March 22, 2016

April 5th came the happy email to tell me I had been awarded the grant for my research!

Grant committee notifications - April 5, 2016

Grant committee notifications - April 5, 2016

But it was not until today, 11 months and 3 weeks from the time I set out to get to Angola, that I actually secured my itinerary and proceeded to my happy dance.

Exactly 4 months after applying for my visa, it arrives - July 22, 2016

Exactly 4 months after applying for my visa, it arrives - July 22, 2016

This will be an incredible opportunity to bring more information and understanding about African art history as well as contemporary African art making to our unbalanced art classroom curriculums.

But, personally, it will also be an opportunity to see the amazing work my friends have been doing for Jesus. I hope to share both stories as I go on this adventure.

If you would like to keep up, follow me on Twitter or Instagram @emilyhmartinez